Hong Kong Day 4 – Lantau and the Japanese Sake Bar

Tai O in all her glory

On Saturday the kids had the day off so we headed to Lantau Island on the ferry to check out the fishing village-on-stilts of Tai O. After a lazy breakfast, we had to pretty much run 2km through the streets and shopping malls to make the quick ferry with about 5 minutes to spare – and then on the other side we managed to do the same with the bus to Tai O. All up it took about 2 hours to get there, with a really scenic route through the hills overlooking the sea - but was worth the wait!

"Welcome to the last boat trip you'll ever take ladies"

The place was really bustling with fresh fish markets, loads of places selling dried fish skins and puffer fish with sombreros and googly eyes. We had a wander around, then went on one the many, many boat trips which take you through the town on a loop, and then out into the bay where all the fishermen ply their trade and you can spot pink dolphins. Cruising around the town was fun, it’s strange to think that these people will live their entire lives perched 10 feet above the water in rickety old shacks, at least some of them had air conditioning and TVs though!

Picking out the perfect puffer-fish for home

After the town they take you out into the bay, past all the fishermen who stare at you as you bob past, somewhat bemused – to where there is supposedly a colony of pink dolphins that hang out and flip around for pictures (if you believe the signs at the jetty anyhow). We sat out there for a good 15 minutes aimlessly looking at the grey waters – occasionally the mullet-sporting boat captain would point and say something in mandarin, probably “there are sometimes dolphins that way but probably not today you English pigs”. Eventually the charade was over and we returned to the jetty. I contemplated asking for a refund, but it had only cost us $4…

Afterwards we went for a stroll to the pier and experienced what would turn out to become a trip defining moment – the production of shrimp paste.

Nothing can prepare you for the foul stench that you encounter – roughly 300 metres leading up to the production area. Becky and Jon had warned us it would be bad – but words can’t really describe just how horrendous it is. By the time you reach the house the air is so thick it feels like you are wading through. The only thing we could liken it to is fishy cat food that has been out in 30 degree heat all day – but magnified by about a thousand. There are big blue barrels sitting out in the sun, filled with a grey-pink sludge which is presumably the shrimp paste and next to the house, is what looks like a big meat grinder – but more like a playdo fun factory, with a constant sausage-like slop coming out.

The smile betrays how much it reeked of dried fish.

Literally the worst smell ever.

We moved past as rapidly as possible and went up to a fancy 5 star hotel for afternoon tea and apple crumble (as you do) – before scamping back and heading to another little town on the way back, right on the beach. Unfortuantely we’d expected rain and didn’t bring swimmers – but it was hot as balls so we stood in the surf and cooled down for a while before heading to a beachside restaurant for sangria and dinner. At this point some guy from Kent who was probably the most annoying Englishman we’ve ever encountered approached for a picture of me and him, with my beard…. Fortunately he left and we watched the sunset, and the local wild Lantau buffalo invade the beach.

That night we decided to hit the town for our final HK evening. After a very English pint in the Yorkshire Pudding pub, we battled the partygoers in Halloween fancy dress (the streets looked like any English city on that Saturday night – it was weird, and didn’t feel at all like we were so far from home) and went in search of a Japanese Sake bar the kids had read about and wanted to try.

Solitary pensive buffalo.

The entrance was in a highrise, via a lift – not particularly well signposted. As we got in – there were two Japanese guys going up with us, to the same floor. Tentatively I said to one of them “Sake bar?” – they laughed and asked if we were going there, then laughed even more when we said yes! As we got to the top a big sign said members only – and we were getting a bit nervous, but were soon ushered to a floor table and given a menu so it seemed ok… We ordered the cheapest bottle they had (which wasn’t that cheap!) but figured it would still be good, given the setting. About 5 minutes after we ordered, there was some feverish activity behind the bar and the music stopped – the lights came on and a load of guys sporting ID badges came in and started talking very sternly to the staff. They then came around the club, asking everyone for their ID’s and showed us his, which looked as though they were some kind of Police… At this point, we were mildly terrified we’d never see out passports again for frequenting some kind of illegal mob-run bar, and we didn’t even get to try the Sake!

Sake!

Us and our fugitive bartender.

Fortunately, after 10 minutes or so they left and the place went back to normal service – then the bartender who seemed to be in charge, popped out from a cupboard he had been hiding in the entire time. It was all very surreal, so we were glad to eventually get our bottle – which tasted unbelievable and soon we are all rather merry, chatting with the locals (who were again a fan of the red beard) and having a ball.

We got back far too late considering we had to get up and pack the next day – but really enjoyed our final night of partying in HK.