Bali - Day 3 - East Bali Adventure

Our local petrol station

After our exploits on the bike yesterday – we thought we would get even more adventurous and head over to the east of the Island. On the maps it was only 40-50km or so away and seemed achievable. We’d read about Sidemen road and how spectacular it was, plus there were a few things along the way of interest – so we saddled up, I got my wife beater out as it was toasty hot outside and we hit the road with a vague idea of where we were headed…

We cruised for about an hour or so before getting lost. Our vague plan of turning inland at a town called Klung Klung went out the window so instead we followed the coastal route around towards Padangbai – as we had heard of that and knew there would probably be something interesting going on near the beach. We passed through a few fishing villages, and saw loads of tiny roadside stalls each with 6 or 8 freshly caught fish lying out neatly in the midday sun for sale. We decided against this, but also managed to miss the turnoff to the largest town in the area (Padangbai) – so instead headed towards a signposted beach resort that looked appealing.

Lost already - much to the
amusement of the locals

Once there, we scratched that idea too as it looked too fancy and headed along the beach to another place to check that out. It was deserted bar a family poolside and a guy behind the bar so we had some snacks and a beer right on the beach and planned our next move. We saw in the Lonely Planet that there was a pretty highly recommended restaurant with good views just around the corner at another resort – the Amankila. So, we set of on the scooter to find it for a more substantial feed. After missing it twice, we found the subtle entrance point on the road and headed up a steep but remarkably well paved road towards the top. The road up had high – almost military looking walls on one side, and the other looked down a cliff over rice fields towards the sea…it was spectacular. At the top, there was – to our surprise – a security gate and 2 guards. We dodged them and went into the adjacent car park to formulate our plan, and panic. One guard quickly came after us to find out our business – I nervously gestured we wanted to eat at the restaurant, in the resort and he immediately changed into the most friendly guy in the world! Were ushered through the swing gate and down through a massive complex towards what looked like reception.

At this point we thought we might be aiming a little above our Bali budget. Before we could discuss and rethink, an impeccably turned out staff member greeted us and showed us the way to the restaurant. We scamped through looking sweaty and afraid, down a set of stairs and then saw the three tiers of infinity pools looking out over the ocean, surrounded by individual huts sheltering giant day beds. There were maybe a dozen guests dotted around that we could see, and at least double that in staff attending to their needs. We shifted past, I had to consciously close my mouth it looked that ridiculous. We were seated at the Terrace restaurant – given some menus and nervously opened them to see what we could afford!

Lunch with a view!

Fortunately, it wasn’t TOO bad. It was EXPENSIVE for Bali, but if  we were back in Australia this would be $100+ a plate. We ordered and laughed at ourselves for rocking up to this place for food, the staff looked bemused at us but were so friendly we felt ok about being there. I had the LP in my bag and had thought it said $65USD a night to stay here – but having seen the place that now seemed unlikely. Sure enough – their cheapest room (according to our 2007 Bali Lonely Planet) was $650USD a night!!! Now we were extra nervous about the food being good, as we were the only ones eating in the restaurant (we soon realized that the guests were all on their day beds having lunch delivered to them). Fortunately when it came out it was amazing. Possibly the best thing we’d eaten in Bali so far (I had a slow roasted duck salad, Cooksey a rare Thai beef salad) – so we savoured our VIP lunch, knowing we’d never be back to stay here – probably even if we won the lottery (we’ve since checked and it’s now at least $950USD a night to stay there!).

 Full and amused – we set off, now knowing where we had to head to reach our original goal of Sidemen Road and it’s views. We turned off the main road and it immediately lead up a rather steep hill – steeper than anything I’d ever managed to drive up before, and the scooter was battling a little under the strain (full throttle it was going about 15km/hr). As we ascended the roads were still fully paved so it was actually pretty nice – the views out down the mountain slopes towards the sea were breathtaking. Row upon row of rice terraces lead down with precision – every so often interrupted by a small temple or hut. Coconut trees lined the roads, kids were out flying kites (I think to bring good fortune) – and they all waved at us – I’m not sure how many ginger beards they see whizz past on a day-to-day basis.

We passed through a couple of small villages – which had the same Warung – petrol station – groceries format as many of the others we’d already seen, so it didn’t feel too remote despite the fact the road became steeper and less paved than we’d hoped for. Actually MUCH less paved, it had soon become an off road experience – with shin deep potholes to traverse, loose stones, gravel and dirt made up about 80% of the surface. We were progressing fine, going at an ok pace and although it wasn’t all that comfortable bouncing about on the scooter we were making ground and enjoying the ride – unfortunately that was when it happened…

A couple of teenagers had just passed us but were now struggling as the road took a sharp right turn up a steeper part with the worst surface yet. There was only a small area of ‘level’ road and they had slowed right down to make it – unfortunately it was so steep we couldn’t slow down or stop to let them get ahead as we’d have rolled back down – but equally there was no place to pass them. As they swerved right, I had to back off to not hit them – then the back wheel spun out in the loose gravel, we did a big of a pirouette and went down. I put my right leg down to try and keep us up and the bike from rolling over us – which fortunately it did, but nonetheless Cooksey and I hit the deck. There were a few frantic seconds trying to get myself up – to get Lisa up and make sure she was ok. Within an instant though we were surrounded by the whole town who’d seen the commotion and rushed to help us. One guy grabbed the bike, a couple me and some kids helped Lisa up to her feet. The riders of the other bike had also stopped to help and everyone was so nice – it really helped the situation.

Only some minor battle scars!

It was a bit of an adrenaline hit to the system to say the least – but we were ok! We’d both sustained minor injuries (I elbowed Cooksey in the face giving her an instant fat lip – then the exhaust came down on my leg as I went over, giving me a bit of a burn on my shin) – but it could have been much worse. Still a little in shock – we managed to get the bike started again (after 3 rather worrying stalls) and headed up to reach the summit and hopefully have a rest for a bit!

There was a portion of road that actually got worse after that – fortunately now we knew how to tackle it and made it though fine, and back onto sealed roads. We stopped at a Warung for a sugary cold drink overlooking a rather beautiful rice terrace and regrouped. We felt lucky to have escaped relatively unscathed and didn’t want to let it stop us enjoying the ride – although at this point it was about 4pm and we were SORE!

We set off back down the mountain – through many, many towns and took in such amazing scenery we found ourselves stopping at the side of the road to take pictures and admire it quite a bit. The Sidemen Road had been correctly billed as awe inspiring so we were (almost) happy to wear our war wounds in return.

Worth it for the views

After once again getting lost on the way home – we arrived back broken around 6pm, and pretty much wrote the evening off with a pizza at the Joglo.

I’m glad we adventured over to East Bali and saw a lot of the island that not too many tourists get to experience – but we decided tomorrow would not involve a lot of scooting!